Today for the second time I visited Tre Cime! Two days ago I could do only half of the Tre Cime tour because I had to go down to the valley which lies 1000m below.
When I arrived at the Auronzo Hütte (2330m) under the cloudy sky, it had a completely different atmosphere from two days ago. Today the air was cold, the heavy ominous clouds were hanging over the peaks of Drei Zinnen. The good side of the story was that only a few tourists and hikers were around!
Rifugio Auronzo at 2333m
After sipping a hot chocolate in the quiet hütte restaurant, I was happy to look outside and admire the majestic peaks, despite the heavy clouds.
Fuelled by the warm drink, I braved into a cold air and started walking. The south side of Tre Cime stands over the path and it is impressive!
Lago di Braies (1494m) – Forela Sora Forno (2388m) – Rifugio Biella (2327m) – Grünwaldalm (1590m) – Lago di Braies (1494m) 17km (estimated), 1100m up and down
The Dolomites wich I have long dreamed of!
Today’s plan was to walk the first part of the famous Alta Via 1 (a 120km long-distance hiking route) and take the route 23 & 19 back to the lake. The Alta Via 1 hike is on my wish-list for a while so it will give me some ideas for this route for the future.
At the trailhead we were welcomed by the amazing green color of the lake, Lago di Braies, surrounded by impressive peaks! Being on the Alta Via 1, I was already all smiles : ))
Lago di Braies, a boat pier
A quaint church at the lakeside
After going around one side of the lake, a very steep climb started. Several people were going up and one Italian was coming up steadily but with lots of efforts. He was doing the Alta Via carrying a 22 kg bag including a tent and all you need for sleeping outdoors! No wonder he was sweating.
Some parts are very steep
… and somewhat scary
We were happy to reach the top at 2300m and had our well-deserved picnic lunch “on the rocks” with a fantastic 360-degree view.
I am on the Via Alta!
From the Rifugio Biella the flat path started but it did not last long. With small up and downs we walked around the impressive mountain Sas dla Porta / Seekofel at the level of 2300m. And then, inevitable, after the ascent, the decent. It was a path of scree. We had to concentrate not to slip. It is almost like snowshoeing on powder snow. But more tiring….
Going down on the sliding scree
Down to the valley, looking up where we came down…
Happy to finish this exhausting downhill and back to the lake, we replenished our batteries with a cup of tea and a cold beer at the Grand Lakeside Hotel terrace…
This trip unexpectedly turned into a fantastic food adventure. The best I can remember (outside Japan, that is). Ohhh… these black smoked gnocchi with truffel and asparagus were to die for and the gnocco fritto a surprising start into a great meal.
Gnocco fritto @ Vidoc in Malcesine
Tenuta San Antonio – Scaia Paradiso
Burrata with sherbet @ l’Antica Osteria, Montone
Blackend onion with truffels @ l’Antica Osteria, Montone
Eggplant mousse on tomato sauce @ l’Antica Osteria, Montone
Gelateria @ Assisi
Tiramisù alle fragole 2.0 @ Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba, Assis
Mushroom tagliatelle with blueberry, @ Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba, Assisi
Tiramisù @ Vidoc in Malcesine, best ever
Black smocked gnocchi, @ Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba, Assisi
Strangozzi with black truffels @ Spoleto
Risotto Carnaroli, with truffles, scallops and shripmps @ Spoleto
Tagliatelle olio, evo e tartufo @ Ristorante la Gioconda in Cagli
Passatelli con fonduta e spignoli @ Ristorante la Gioconda in Cagli
We stayed three nights in Cagli, which looks very much like a normal Italian town with a medieval touch, but doesn’t leave as much an impression as the amazing towns of Assisi and Gobbio. The reason why we stayed here was due to the proximity to Philippe’s favorite model sailplane flying place!
Municipio di Cagli
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti
Cagli Old Town
Filippo from our grand apartment : )
Cagli Old Town
But it nevertheless turned out to be an interesting place. Our B&B apartment, part of an old mansion owned by low-key Italian Francesco, was nice and cozy. What surprised us was Francesco’s museum-like mansion! It has a 4m high-ceiling dining room, several bedrooms with antique furniture, an enormous kitchen with a fireplace and antique plates, and other countless rooms…. Totally amazing!
The town has a good size square where locals and some tourists hang out for coffee and chatting. We get a good taste for an Italian life, by going for dinner in this square where everyone gathers and also by going for breakfast in one of popular cafes in town where many locals seem to come for espresso and a sweet bread.
The actual flying place is called “La Bandita” on Monte Morcia in Marche. For some unknown reasons, modellers refer to it as Monte Catria in Umbria (even Monte Catria is in Marche). Interesting piece of trivia.
Needle take off
I enjoyed two days of excellent flying conditions. This is the best place for alpine model RC soaring I know.
Monte Morcia (1181m) to Monte Catria (1701m) 5-6 hours, 20km (estimated), 550m up & down
On the second day in the region of Monte Morcia.
Today we left early so that Philippe gets an early start with flying on his preferred hilltop, Monte Morcia.
After watching him flying his airplane a bit, I headed off to Monte Catria (1701m) , the highest peak in this area. Its peak with the cross can be seen from far.
From Monte Morcia I walked on the white road till the foot of Monte Acuto (1668m). By then several cars with German number plates passed by and I knew that these flyers were going to the same point where Philippe was. This spot is popular particularly among Germans, I was told.
Looking back M. Morcia and Philippe
After half an hour or so, it was a relief to be out of the car road and finally find the hiking path. It lead into the beautiful dense forest and I enjoyed the serenity of the place, away from the scorching sun.
A beautiful forest path
From the GPS map I knew that I had to go around to the other side of Monte Acuto before going to Monte Catria. At a couple of points the signposts were not clear or not present at all so I asked some forest workers for directions (almost no other hiker was on the path).
Again I came out of the forest and onto a gravel road. Soon a car passed by but it stopped a couple of meters away and back-warded towards me. From the window the guy extended his arm and held something in his hand. I noticed that it was the regional map of “Monte Catria”! While I stared at it, he gave it to me without a word and drove away before I could say anything.
Monte Catria map
I was taken back and wanted to ask him, “did you read my mind??”
I kept wishing I would have had a proper map, as I lost my way several times today. Might he be one of the workers whom I saw and asked for directions earlier? I did not recognize him and was therefore a bit perplexed, but overjoyed with a new “compass” in my hands!
So I started walking with a better sense of orientation and confidence. Soon Monte Catria came into sight. The top with the cross looked quite far and its sharp mountain flank looked unfriendly.
Monte Catria is finally in view
The mountain flank seems unfriendly; how am I going to cross this?
The hike took more time than I had planned, as I spent a lot of time trying to find the path. But two women hikers came down and told me that it would take only over one hour so I decided to give it a go. The path was steep and slippery near the top but the view was fantastic! Unfortunately it was terribly windy and cold up there, so I could not stay for long.
At the trailhead of M. Catria
A large red-white sign
The Cross at M. Catria
The mountain flank seems unfriendly; how am I going to cross this?
To the cross, the top of M. Catria
I walked back the way I came and I was exhausted when I reached where Philippe was still happily flying his airplane along with lots of German and Swiss enthusiasts ….
Monte Morcia (1181m) -> Pian di Troscia (975m) -> Paravento (451m) -> Castello di Frontone (570m)
Philippe was very excited to get to his preferred modell airplane soaring place, Monte Morcia. Even though I love Philippe very much, staying put all day, watching him and his airplanes, was out of question. So I leave him with his big boy toys and am off to exploring the surrounding mountains on foot.
Needle take off
Monte Morcia and its suroundings are an area not particularly known for hiking. There are marked hiking paths but it requires a bit of research and luck, if you are not familiar with the place. However, I headed off from Monte Morcia (1181m) in good spirit.
Today’s trailhead Monte Morcia
First on the ridge walk from Monte Morcia.
I could see Philippe and other airplane flyers far on the ridge.
Looking back the path
The slope is pretty with flowers.
Flowers on the mountainslope
Soon the path went into the forest. It was rather difficult to find the right path and I went back and forth till I find one.
Going to the forest. happy to find the white/red marker
After coming to the open area, the path disappears into the blooming flower field! The flowers are high up to my hip but luckily I could see the trace in the field.
The path disappears into the flower filed
Pian di Troscia 975m
Frontone at the hilltop
After rather steep and difficult gravel path (it turned out to be not a marked hiking path), I arrived at a small village called Paravento.
Center of Paravento with no one in sight
I was happy to be down at the valley and look back Monte Morcia.
Looking back Monte Morcia
The day was still early when I decided to visit the Castello di Frontone, a hilltop medieval town which I could see earlier from the top of the mountain.
Arrived at Castillo de Frontone
A boy on the main street of the village
Today’s hike was overall not very successful, as I was not familiar with the region, only had a GPS map, and the Italian signposts tend to be sporadic. I did a lot of going back and forth to find the right path under the scorching sun….
But I still go some sense of the region so the overall experience gets an “OK”.